| Author
|
bouldering
|
Outolintu
IsraTrance Full Member
Started Topics :
63
Posts :
1477
Posted : Jun 13, 2010 19:37:18
|
any fellow boulderers hanging (!) around on isratrance?
i started bouldering a couple of years a go and it's probably the 1st physical exercise that has really hooked me. i can't stand pumping iron or running since i find it boring. i've played a little football but i never really got into it. bouldering is great as it's like life: you climb alone but
it's more fun with friends. it combines problem solution capabilities with tough, physical performances including pure strength, co-ordination, body control and flexibility.
for those who are not familiar with the sport:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bouldering
i've been climbing indoor mostly, outdoors too (but our outdoor season is kinda short)
and would like to undertake a bouldering trip to f.e. fontainebleau or hampi one day.
my best grade indoors so far has been a 6b+ problem (fontainebleau grade).
if you're visiting finland and helsinki i'd suggest you'd check out the following sites:
http://www.boulderkeskus.com/?lang=en
http://27crags.com/
your favourite spots, problems and stories?
any tips or tricks?
  "no one ever sweats on a plug-in" -moby |
|
|
|
rich
IsraTrance Full Member
Started Topics :
103
Posts :
2184
Posted : Jun 14, 2010 06:13
|
Yes!!
I am a lover of most outdoor activities and I fell in love with climbing some years ago and have just recently gotten back into it.
There is a climbing gym near my house in SF (planetgranite.com) and I go there early in the morning when its not crowded. I am still working on mastering V0 and V1 routes but have some done a couple V2 and V3s (when my son is coaching me. he's a natural!) .
I have top roped outdoor as well, which is super fun. Recently went to Joshua Tree which is like a playground for climbing! Every level of climbing is there, and at sunset it's breathtaking.
Glad you started this thread! More to post... 
|
|
|
|
Outolintu
IsraTrance Full Member
Started Topics :
63
Posts :
1477
Posted : Jun 14, 2010 17:26
|
here's a table for comparing different bouldering grade systems:
http://www.rockfax.com/publications/bgrades.html
rich, i think i've heard of joshua tree.
i've climbed with top-rope a couple of times but it's not as much fun some how. ofcourse it's good for endurance but the rope bothers me  free climbing is for nutters though and without a rope i'm usually staying under 7 meters. i like traverse problems a lot too. there i can focus totally on climbing technique without the risk of slamming onto the ground when trying some nutty moves.
v0 seems to be a 4 here. what seems to be the problem? if you have the strength and eye to do v2 and v3 problems surely a v0 can not be a problem anymore?
"no one ever sweats on a plug-in" -moby |
|
|
|
rich
IsraTrance Full Member
Started Topics :
103
Posts :
2184
Posted : Jun 14, 2010 20:42
|
I usually start by doing all the V0s in the gym, then moving to the V1s, but there's almost always one or two V1s that I cannot make, for some reason. It's usually my pinching strength that's weak. I noticed this first a year or so ago when playing guitar, that I've lost some of my finger strength in my left hand. I spoke with an ergonomics specialist at work and was told it's because I'm resting my left elbow on the arm of my chair when at the keyboard, and it's pressing down on the nerve that runs to the ring and pinky fingers, causing them to go numb. So, I'm working on changing some habits (I'm a software engineer so on the computer all day).
Apart from the pinch grip problem, I am pretty strong, but do need to work on flexibility. Reaching my leg up is sometimes an issue. Need to do more stetching.
I've managed V2 and V3 when it involved overhangs, but only only certain ones, that play to my strengths.
I'm like you, though, I don't like to fall from heights, even if it is on a thick mat. So I like to do traverses, to work on technique, like you do.
For me these days I am not so intent on breaking my neck, and enjoy more working on technique and moving smoothly and smartly. Even if I finish a simple V0 or V1 I repeat it more than once, just to do it better and smoother. I just love the feeling
|
|
|
|
Outolintu
IsraTrance Full Member
Started Topics :
63
Posts :
1477
Posted : Jun 15, 2010 11:11
|
pinchers are a pain in the a.. fingers
i can't handle pinch problems very well either.
crimpers for some reason work better for me.
i'm more the small and flexible type so that's my advantage. heights especially indoors are not really a problem to me as i trust the mats and very rarely come down in a uncontrolled manner anymore these days. so i mostly climb upwards when i boulder indoors. outdoors i do both ways: traverse and upwards.
"no one ever sweats on a plug-in" -moby |
|
|
|
rich
IsraTrance Full Member
Started Topics :
103
Posts :
2184
Posted : Jun 15, 2010 20:29
|
|
Outolintu
IsraTrance Full Member
Started Topics :
63
Posts :
1477
Posted : Jun 15, 2010 22:42
|
yeah, they have 2 caves and both are very nice indeed. i prefer the newer one in konala as it has more interesting faces. their pads are also top quality.
your place in sf seems fun too. the artificial crag looked interesting . haven't seen something like that here in finland.
hmmh... are we the only ones clmibing around here? can't believe it.
"no one ever sweats on a plug-in" -moby |
|
|
|
rich
IsraTrance Full Member
Started Topics :
103
Posts :
2184
Posted : Jun 17, 2010 22:32
|
Today it was my birthday and I was deciding between a quick surf before work or climbing. I didn't feel like freezing my ass off with a minus tide and crumbly waves so went to the climbing gym. It's so nicely located, you look out over the san francisco bay and the day is just so beautiful today. blue skies and perfect temp.
I started as I usually do with some V0s to warm up. A couple of them were either especially hard or they had holds missing. I tried V1 and it's like the difficulty is raised exponentially. But I made the ones I tried. V2 I could find one I could make. The holds are so small and I have no grip strength. Couldn't do any today. But it was my birthday so I just had fun |
|
|
|
Outolintu
IsraTrance Full Member
Started Topics :
63
Posts :
1477
Posted : Jun 18, 2010 12:45
|
well, happy birthday to you! 
i'm going to the konala cave today after work. probably some basic clmibing unless we manage to hype ourselves up to some manic behaviour 
next week i'll have some time off from work so if weather permits i hope to boulder some outdoor spots too.
"no one ever sweats on a plug-in" -moby |
|
|
|
rich
IsraTrance Full Member
Started Topics :
103
Posts :
2184
Posted : Jun 24, 2010 20:21
|
|
Outolintu
IsraTrance Full Member
Started Topics :
63
Posts :
1477
Posted : Jun 25, 2010 11:18
|
well, i was climbing in- and outdoor this week. i guess i was a bit too manic since i sprained my shoulder and i think it's probably inflamed. now i have to rest and fall into boredom. the outdoor bouldering was nice though. we were at our basic spot in meilahti which is one of the more popular ones in helsinki. http://27crags.com/crags/meilahti (the pic on the left is from the traverse wall, the pic on the right is a different spot in meilahti) it has over 30 boulder problems, 4 rope routes and a long traverse. i bouldered a easy 8m problem and worked on the traverse. the traverse is around 30 metres long and has in my opinion 5 cruxs that you have to solve before you can try an attempt on the whole. you can also climb it on at least 3 different levels. i have a pretty good routine on 4/5 cruxs in the mid range area but the 2nd crux still gives me a hard time. i've managed the 2nd crux a couple of times but i haven't found the best way yet. the traverse is a very diverse route where i can practice different climbing techniques and bouldering it has teached me many basic but essential things about bouldering.
"no one ever sweats on a plug-in" -moby |
|
|
|
Outolintu
IsraTrance Full Member
Started Topics :
63
Posts :
1477
Posted : Jun 25, 2010 11:35
|
Quote:
|
On 2010-06-24 20:21, rich wrote:
"To climb well, you have to be in the moment, the one in which self-consciousness evaporates and only movement remains."
|
|
i always had trouble getting myself to meditate although i've thought it could be useful or helpful. as i've bouldered i've come to the conclusion that it is to me a way to meditate since i'm "in the moment" and that feeling lingers after a good session just like it does after meditation. i feel more alert to my surroundings, everything seems more clear. i don't care about the enlightenment part. it's hugging rocks that counts
"no one ever sweats on a plug-in" -moby |
|
|
|
rich
IsraTrance Full Member
Started Topics :
103
Posts :
2184
Posted : Jun 26, 2010 02:30
|
Finland is beautiful. Really have to make it there some day. The traverse wall looks fun! I can see where there can be difficult areas. Are the trees close enough where you can press your back against to rest?
Sorry to hear you hurt your shoulder. That's a real bummer, especially now that summer is here. Is it the rotator cuff? If so, may want to start doing some exercises for it after it's healed, to avoid it happening again. (my experience).
I could never get into meditation either. But a lot of the fun things I like to do achieve the same thing, like climbing. but I get the most from surfing. |
|
|
|
Outolintu
IsraTrance Full Member
Started Topics :
63
Posts :
1477
Posted : Jun 26, 2010 13:09
|
Quote:
|
On 2010-06-26 02:30, rich wrote:
Finland is beautiful. Really have to make it there some day. The traverse wall looks fun! I can see where there can be difficult areas. Are the trees close enough where you can press your back against to rest? |
|
there are a couple of places where you actually can lean against a tree but that's not allowed in other places f.e. climbing hydrokefalos (that's the boulder problem the guy is climbing upwards in the pic on the left) the tree is more of a nuisance since you can fall against it.
Quote:
|
Sorry to hear you hurt your shoulder. That's a real bummer, especially now that summer is here. Is it the rotator cuff? If so, may want to start doing some exercises for it after it's healed, to avoid it happening again. (my experience).
|
|
rotator cuff? i don't know it just hurts. not very badly so i have hopes that i'm climbing in a week or two again.
Quote:
|
I get the most from surfing.
|
|
never tried surfing but i can imagine that it's a wonderful experience.
"no one ever sweats on a plug-in" -moby |
|
|
|
Outolintu
IsraTrance Full Member
Started Topics :
63
Posts :
1477
Posted : Jul 19, 2010 11:51
|
wheehee!
yesterday i almost got the full traverse with one attempt at meilahti. i slipped off the wall 2 moves before the end  this is the 3rd summer i've been trying to crack it.
"no one ever sweats on a plug-in" -moby |
|
|
|
