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Posted : Jan 4, 2013 09:20
using either motor [url=http://www.icarbonsports.com/products/carbon-bike-frame-fork/carbon-road-bike-frames/]carbon road frames[/url]the tube by depressing the valve ICAbike01 stem with the hooked end of your tire lever. There are two main types of valve stems, a schrader valve and a presta valve. This tutorial is based on a schrader valve, but I will be covering the different valve types in another tutorial.
Now itâ€™s time to remove your tire, one side at a time. Choose a section of tire that is away from the valve and hook one of the tire levers under the bead, directly in line with one of your spokes. Pry one side of the tire bead over the edge of the rim, and then hook the end of the tire lever to the nearest spoke. Insert another tire lever two spokes away from the first, and a third another two spokes away. Now the middle lever should fall out, and you can continue the process. When the tire is loose enough you can just run a tire lever around the rest of the rim to pull the whole side over.
After you have removed one side of the tire, the[url=http://www.icarbonsports.com/]carbon fibre bike frames[/url]
ow remove the tube from the tire, and try to keep track of where it was positioned in relation to the tire. Inflate the tube to approximately twice its original size. This will expand the hole making it easier to find.
Listen carefully to the entire circumference of[url=http://www.icarbonsports.com/products/carbon-bike-frame-fork/]china carbon frames[/url]the tube; you should hear a hissing sound that will indicate where the leak is. As a last resort you can submerge the tube in water and watch for bubbles, but youâ€™ll want to avoid doing this as youâ€™ll need the tube to be completely dry in order for the patch glue to work.
Once youâ€™ve found the leak, take note of whetherICAbike01 it is on the inner or outer side of the tube.
I donâ€™t recommend using either motor oil or 3in1 oil to lubricate the chain. Motor oil is too heavy and wonâ€™t fully penetrate the rollers, and 3in1 oil is vegetable based and will gum up the chain. I also donâ€™t recommend using wax lubricants because while they donâ€™t collect as much dirt, they are a lot of hassle to apply correctly, and wax is simply not as good a lubricant as oil. I do recommend mineral based chain oils like Finish Line Cross Country or Phil Wood Tenacious Oil because they do the best job of fighting corrosion and donâ€™t wash away when they get wet.
For cleaning, first shift the chain into [url=http://www.icarbonsports.com/]zipp 404[/url]the smallest sprocket on the rear. For average dust and dirt, wipe the chain clean with a solvent soaked rag. The easiest way to do this is to hold the chain still at the rear derailleur cage while firmly wiping the lower run of the chain. Then move the chain backward and wipe again until youâ€™ve wiped the entire length of chain. Wipe between the rear sprockets using either a rag or a sprocket cleaning tool. Then clean all of the front chainrings on both sides.
Shift your gears into the middle sprocket both front and rear. Remember that oil does a good job of spreading itself, so try not to over-apply the lubricant. Lubricate the inner circumference of the chain, on the side that faces the sprockets along the top of the lower run of the chain. Run the chain backwards while dropping oil down both sides of the rollers.
Shift through all of the gears to spread the lubricant evenly through the drivetrain. Then use a rag to wipe off any excess oil.