Surfing

On 2008-04-21 20:32:46, rich wrote:
For those who know, surfing is much more than a sport. It's a lifelong love.
For the ocean and all who live in it, the sky, the horizon and the power of the waves which give us the ultimate dance experience. It is a lifelong love for the discovery of ourselves.
To me surfing is a metaphor for our lives. Faith in our direction and purpose, adaptation to circumstances in the most fluid, flowing and functional way we can, always seeking improvement, and most of all, loving every experience, even the pummeling the ocean gives us when we don't adhere to her rules.

When I dance to the music I love I feel the same freedom in movement, the same flow to the waves; these ones from sound. Paddling back out after a ride that was exactly as you wanted it to be, your smile is infectious. Everybody in the lineup knows that smile. They know that feeling. And all eyes turn back to the horizon for more, as dancers eyes close again after sharing a smile and the music sinks back in.

After a good surf session (well, they're all good really), drying off at my car parked on the cliff with some deep progressive grooves thumping out the window, in rhythm with the air and the sun sinking into the ocean, there's such a feeling of satisfaction that you feel this is how every day should end. and that at the end of my life I know I will feel exactly the same satisfaction and bliss of a session that was lived fully realized.