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Backdrop fabric
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Dr. Steppa
Started Topics :
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2
Posted : Aug 25, 2007 05:46
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Wondering if anyone had some suggestions for ideal fabrics to paint on for outdoor backdrop purposes. Thanks |
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Rik
IsraTrance Team
Started Topics :
107
Posts :
966
Posted : Aug 27, 2007 01:43
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I guess lycra but as mentioned by Jlof it's a very unforgiving material to paint on...
the most used material is either plain black cotton, or the fabric used to build sun-blinds for garden-terrasses.
important for cotton is not to get to thick material, as it'll soak paint and you'll end up using a lot more (and it's heavier to transport)
the main benefit of the sunblinds is that it's coated and the paint stays on the surface instead of going into the material like it would with cotton. it's probably more expensive though.
There's also a bit of discussion about using black or white backgrounds... so far the best in my opinion is black with a uv-white & greyscale groundlayer where you paint your figures.
if you're thinking permanent installation i think you need to worry more about the paint you use... i think it'll lose a lot of it's uv-reactiveness in a short while...
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Pyite
IsraTrance Junior Member
Started Topics :
25
Posts :
238
Posted : Aug 30, 2007 16:45
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One important factor for choosing a fabric is the size of the drop you're planning on painting. The bigger you go, the more important your fabric choice will be. I've painted 10' x 20' drops on lightweight muslin (you can get it off ebay for about 45 bucks if you look around) and on heavy-duty canvas I got from an art supplies store-- both have their pros and cons.
While the art store canvas will probably hold up better over the long run, it's incredibly heavy (especially after a rainstorm) and like Rik said, it soaks up a LOT of paint. It also cost about 150 bones for the canvas alone. The muslin is very lightweight, so even wet it's not too heavy, and it doesn't eat a lot of paint.
But.... painting on muslin has a very different 'feel' from painting on canvas-- I think it's much less forgiving, so I suppose it eventually comes down to a mixture of practicality and personal taste.... and possibly price. That's a lot of P's...
When I paint smaller drops I use plain black cotton. I sketch out the basic outline and then prime it with normal white acrylic paint.
I know some folks like to paint on silk, but I would imagine that is quite expensive.
good luck...
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susan
Started Topics :
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8
Posted : Aug 31, 2007 13:03
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hi dr. steppa
the best fabric i've found to paint on in any size
-acrylic brush painted- is a heavy cotton called twill,
maybe it is called something different where you live,
but it is one of the the heaviest pure cotton weights before canvas.
further to that there is a slightly heavier pure cotton
called brushed, or peach cavalry, drill. i've found it to be
a wonderous material,even better than twill as it is slightly
furry on the up side which brings your design even further forward
and allows your backdrop to stay much better in the shape
of your final cut.
it is also darker in it's colour shade and fades much less easily.
good luck
don't forget to show us your style
cheers susan
http://www.jansse.com/gallery/SparksArt
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SparksArt/Australia [uv backdrops]
http://www.jansse.com/gallery/SparksArt |
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panorama
IsraTrance Junior Member
Started Topics :
23
Posts :
132
Posted : Oct 3, 2007 00:34
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hey susan- nice work.
been a while...keep up the good work
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Trance is the answer
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micromusic
Started Topics :
2
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65
Posted : Oct 3, 2007 02:29
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wow- very impressive susan! please send one to colorado! :v
we've been using regular cotton bedsheets.. very cheap, and they've been holding up for a couple of years now, but i guess it's maybe not the best for long term stuff.
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On 2007-08-27 01:43, Rik wrote:
There's also a bit of discussion about using black or white backgrounds... so far the best in my opinion is black with a uv-white & greyscale groundlayer where you paint your figures.
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can you explain this more? the white & greyscale groundlayer.. are you pre-painting your design with acrylic and then going over it with uv paint? does it have to be uv reactive for the groundlayer? what's the difference between using white or the greyscale.. and what do you mean by greyscale? does it have to do with the final color?
we've been using white sheets and painting both the uv design and the black but it's a lot of work (twice as much!) so we're going to try it with black fabric next time, i'm just kinda looking for tips i guess.
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GorillaDust
Started Topics :
8
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166
Posted : Oct 3, 2007 22:11
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Just use black fabric and paint a base layer of white or light grey. Once it's dried you can paint over it without having to do millions of coats, and the white background will help the uv colors glow brighter. |
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susan
Started Topics :
0
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8
Posted : Oct 6, 2007 05:36
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Quote:
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On 2007-10-03 00:34, panorama wrote:
hey susan- nice work.
been a while...keep up the good work
Pan |
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hey Pan- same to you mate 
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SparksArt/Australia [uv backdrops]
http://www.jansse.com/gallery/SparksArt |
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susan
Started Topics :
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Posts :
8
Posted : Oct 6, 2007 05:50
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[quote]
On 2007-10-03 02:29, micromusic wrote:
Quote:
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can you explain this more? the white & greyscale groundlayer.. are you pre-painting your design with acrylic and then going over it with uv paint? does it have to be uv reactive for the groundlayer? what's the difference between using white or the greyscale.. and what do you mean by greyscale? does it have to do with the final color?
we've been using white sheets and painting both the uv design and the black but it's a lot of work (twice as much!) so we're going to try it with black fabric next time, i'm just kinda looking for tips i guess.
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hello mate- my understanding of why it is important to use an undercoat on a black, or dark, material background goes like this:
the uv paint is quite transparent and the black/dark material aborbs it too much without the non-glow undercoat, so your colours will never be as clear and bright as they could be..
using the non-glow white or off-white undercoat also gives the uv light a solid background to reflect from. the uv light rays shine through the transparent uv colours and when they hit the more opaque non-glow undercoat they bounce back to your eye bringing the colours you see.
without this undercoat much of the vivid colour is absorbed by your black material and uv-paint.
my method is to undercoat in multiple thin layers of non-glow acrylic white and then cover the design with the same number of thin coloured layers until the undercoat completely 'disappears' (only we know better  ).
thanks for your encouraging words for my work,
good luck with yours..
have fun
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SparksArt/Australia [uv backdrops]
http://www.jansse.com/gallery/SparksArt |
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rave_girl
Started Topics :
2
Posts :
142
Posted : Nov 18, 2007 21:18
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hello ppl... its interesting to read everyones ideas here... Well if you talk about which background to use,,, Just take any cloth either black or white and give a coat of "TEXTURE WHITE mix with a gum based medium (fevicol),,,, both shud be in equal quantity" it hardly takes time to get dried up and it just doesnt soak ANYTHING so u reallly dont have to struggle wid extra coatings & it also gives a good glossy kinda effect...i use it.. 
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daya
Started Topics :
8
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307
Posted : Nov 19, 2007 18:52
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white fabric will give more support for the lumination of the paint compare to black fabric layed with white paint background. yes, watery coating is always good to save paints and faster painting process. stronger too. but experimenting is always the best part.
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